1937 ford sedan rear shocks
Aug 30, 2019 7:54 AM - 356 Views Create A New Thread
Looking for options on rear shocks
I’ll start off with saying I’m new here. My father (LPS37) used to post here after he first got his 37 a few years ago and got a lot of help. I remember him talking about Shine(?) and Jims mothershead (I thinks those were some names of some guys that helped him out with things). Unfortunately my dad passed away unexpectedly 2 years ago...way too young. I’ve had dads 37 now for 2 years but haven’t had it in me to use it the way dad would have liked. I’m finally starting to use it more and want to keep up with what he started..and make a cpl improvements and changes to fit my style and taste.
It’s a 37 humpback. Well built car. My only complaint is the rear suspension. It bottoms out way too easily. It’s a leaf setup with bump stops, I think 1-9/16” bumps. Stance and ride height and gender gaps are all good, so I don’t have any sag I don’t think. Current shocks are Napa Response RR94038 (17.8 extended, 11.25 compressed). They appear to be universal type shocks. What other shocks are people using? I’m debating a set of QA1 double adjustable. Being able to adjust the compression would be huge, plus I can rebuild/revalve my own shocks if I don’t think there’s enough compression. I’m just not sure which part number is the correct one. The car weighs 3053 total. 1589 front 1463 rear.
I suppose ultimately converting to coil overs would be the right move. I’m just not sure how difficult that would be with the body on the car. Has anybody here done that and can give any insight?
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Sep 10, 2019 at 1:40 PM
- Thanks for the follow up. It bugs me when guys ask for help and never let the responders know what ended up being the fix. Without a fix, we gain no knowledge, just read about the problem. Thanks, let us know what is next.
Sep 9, 2019 at 5:20 PM
- JMHO, but unless the shocks are bottoming out (wrong size)? Again JMHO, but I believe shocks are a dampening devise design to slow down bounce? While they can firm up a ride, I can't see them causing a bump condition if they're sized correct. But a simple and cheap test would be to remove the shocks and take it out for a short low speed test ride, if it still bumps, it ain't the shocks.
Sep 9, 2019 at 12:59 PM
scooting.. sorry for the slow response, I was out of town for a bit.
It actually has a posies parallel leaf setup in it. To be clear, this is a great handling extremely well built car that my dad had for 10 years and put probably at least 30,000 miles on it in that time. I just don’t like the the extremely hard hit when you cross something like a highway drainage pipe that’s sunk and gives that quick rear ended drop and slaps up on the bump springs. Maybe dad just tolerated it or hadn’t got around to finding a solution that he was happy with either. My note book shows he changed rear shocks and bump springs in the past cpl years. I’m guessing he was chasing the same thing as me.
Right now the debate in my head is to put new springs on it from posies, replace the shocks with a set of double adjustable QA1s, which I can dyno and see what I have exactly and I can revalve those as needed if I think it needs a bigger compression stack, or possibly adding a bump rubber inside the existing bump spring.
Ultimately in my head, shocks is the answer. They control the rate at which a spring works and I need to slow down the rate at which the springs are working.
This will be a winter project so it’ll be another month or so before I get around to anything other than maybe shocks that I can do real quick.
Sep 8, 2019 at 7:46 PM
- any results yet? Let us know what your decision was.
Sep 3, 2019 at 1:16 PM
Go online and look at Posie's. Then call them, let them know what you have and get the best ride ever.
Sep 2, 2019 at 8:27 PM
- Check in with Chassis Engineering as they make spring kits w/shocks for 37 Fords ! They did get pick up by Heidt's as the owner of Chassis Engineering passed away a year or so ago !
Sep 2, 2019 at 1:56 PM
- I meant I raised the rear of the car (reared down), shorter blocks
Sep 2, 2019 at 11:26 AM
- Hmmmm. maybe it's hitting where you don't think. What if you support the frame, remove the shocks, and articulate the rear end with a floor jack? Does it done any where? The number of leafs, and the correct snubbers are all good points. Think about this, ever see a drive shaft hit bottom on the output shaft? If it is hitting there, and hits hard it will bust the back of the transmission off. Now is the time to check this!
Sep 2, 2019 at 10:20 AM
How about adding a single leaf to each side? Maybe you might even have them in Your Father's car stuff? (When he lowered it).
Suggestion- Check with a local spring shop and let them examine your situation for the best results.
What area do you live in? If you are close to me, I can help you, or one of my friends can......
Keep us informed, more than this will probably creep up in the future.
Sep 2, 2019 at 10:00 AM
Mike...I do have parallel leafs. It is a multi leaf setup. I’ve debated getting a new set of those. I’ve haven’t found a single leaf setup. Is that something custom from a spring shop?
The bump stops (which are actually bump coils from what I can tell) aren’t too big I don’t think simply based on measurement from axle to frame and where the tire rises in the wheelwell.
I know the shock angles are not conducive to good dampening but there’s not much I can do about that without changing mounting location.
36Sedan...when you said moved rear up a 1/2”..I’m assuming you actually mean down or do you have a rear under spring setup? Did you put shorter lowering blocks in? My rear is above my springs so moving up would make my situation worse.
I appreciate the responses...it gives me some things to look at here.
I wish I could upload some pics but this site doesn’t seem compatible with my iPhone picture format where all my pics are.
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