Pull Engine and Trans as a Unit

Jan 2, 2022 5:38 PM - 169 Views Create A New Thread

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GeneF

Pickerington, OH



none
Getting ready to pull the engine and trans as a unit on my streetrod. They need to come out, and go in together.

Chevy 350, with a THM 350. 1936 Plymouth Opera Sedan.

I have 25 links in the chain. The chain is in the passenger side water pump hole (pump is off), and I am using my bracket that one would use to pull an engine on the drivers side of the intake at the back. Every time I try to use my leveling bar it ends up hitting the firewall and marking it up. I look at using it this time, and plainly it will be the same result. Therfore, what link should I attach my cherrypicker to to get the tilt optimized and pull the thing out? I'm thinking that the front wheels on the ground, and the back wheels up a bit may help. Seems like I have had to pull the car about half apart just to get the thing outta there. I am almost ready to pull the thing up outta there.

Anyone have experience with this, or a best guess? What link should I attach my cherrypicker to to get the tilt optimized and pull the thing out?





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Comments
  • jimmothershead
    Jan 14, 2022 at 8:43 AM


  • Stan
    HOOOORAAAAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Do all 5 cars have title matching VIN plates ? I do over 100 OEM reproduction VIN plates with your data.
    If you need one call or email your car for a photo example of your plate.
    Jim 410 474 2244
    vinplates@gmail.com

  • stano41
    Jan 10, 2022 at 6:41 PM


  • Glad to hear the engine is working out..Yeap the time of the year for wrenchen..

    thank you stano41

  • GeneF
    Jan 9, 2022 at 4:00 PM


  • It is out. However I got a surprise. The engine had to come out seperatly. Getting those bellhousing bolts out were a challenge! The core is in the return crate.

    The trans is up on a floor jack with a block of wood under it. The shifter handle will not come out. I have all but one screw/bolt out of the Lokar shifter aseembly. The shifter and E-brake assemblies were cut CLOSE. The E-brake is mounted tot he trans housing too. The trans lines are gonna be fun too. At this point, I'm 99% sure that the drive line was installed, and then the body was put back on the frame. I'll get the transmssion out, and then I can start cleaning, and tiddying up some things I want to work on. I'm getting there. When I get done in the spring I'm gonna have one super hotrod, that's for sure. I can hardly believe the guy put the car together with an engine and transmission from a 1972 Suburban, without freshening up the trans and engine. I have 5 collector cars, and this is the last one that needs major surgery - thank goodness!


  • GeneF
    Jan 5, 2022 at 6:09 PM


  • Thanks everyone

  • jimmothershead
    Jan 3, 2022 at 5:43 PM


  • Floor jack under trans. Trans cross member remove.
    Remove radiator, fan, distributor, plugs and core suppot, fender cross bar, wires and battery cables, hoses, exhaust pipes, carb, throttle cable, motor mounts bolts.
    Drain water from engine and radiator
    Since 1957 I use 3/8 chain on 3/8 bell housing bolt, chris cross to left front longer water pump bolt.
    Protect valve covers unless junk. Later engines like Jeff/ Tazhog sez, front and rear 3/8' head bolts with washers.
    Install old yoke so no trans leak.
    Lower trans............
    Yanked my first engine under the Slugs Car Club oak tree with a chain fall, 1957
    then with three 3" electrician's heavy wal conduit,
    then with a rolling trolley with a comalong
    then a cherry picker.
    Carefull ...........
    Have fun, Jim


  • stano41
    Jan 3, 2022 at 1:56 PM


  • me also with the head access bolts for the alternator and at the back of engine on the other head. (front and back intake holes work to, but use longer bolts) (also put fender washers on bolts) make chain just long enough to make a pyramid over carb but miss carb. naturally use end of link on one end and pick a link on the other end, let rest of chain hang loose. use pick a link on front of engine to relocate if have to. make chain pyramid center of carb for engine only. make chain center just behind the carb for engine and trans pulls. make chain pyramid low to the carb but just misses the carb. hook puller hook in the cross over chain and relocate hook forwards or to the back to get balance of engine/trans just behind the carb works best for me.. i like the trans tail shaft down a little from balance straight, for coming out and going back in. i guess tail shaft down about 10 inches or so from level. this works good if by yourself. no one else has to hold the tail shaft to help get out that way. have a few two by four wood if have to you can set engine on wood most of way in to relocate center of hook on crossover chain for change of balance. have wood for under and set on the sides to unhook.

    goes without saying but, never even once reach hand in under engine/trans. have 4 foot of pipe (one inch) or two by four, or long pry bars to help to help push or move.

    pull engine out. push car back if possible for best safety. or move puller away from car. at any rate let engine/trans down close to ground to move any where else.

    also make sure the puller wheels are not close to center of hook. that the puller wheels (under the engine) are well past the center of hook as once the load of engine , will not tip puller over., our puller is home made and we have to watch that adjustment of the wheels. at least a foot past center of hook.

    thank you stano41

  • tazhog54
    Jan 3, 2022 at 9:44 AM


  • I always use the head bolt holes on the front of the heads and back of the heads Kinda trail and error thing !



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